The Corniche

I think it means "Shell". The Corniche is the area along the gulf preserved for stolling and provides a beautiful view of the skyline. Along the Corniche you can walk from the business district to the Souk and tourist area- a stretch of about 2 miles in the shape of a "U". The tip of the "U" on one side are the luxury hotels like the Sheraton and Hilton and the tip of the other side of the "U" is the Islamic Museum of Art. In the middle is a giant oyster shell with a giant pearl in the center which is why I believe Corniche means shell or something similar. Pearling used to be the major trade and business of Qatar before gas and oil took over. There is still a man selling pearls in the Souk who was a pearl diver. Not many of them around anymore! He looks to be at least 80 years old and is surrounded by blown up pictures of what he used to look like when he was pearl diving!

To get to the Corniche, it's about a 4 mile walk from our apartment. I took pictures along the way because I wanted to show you how treacherous the walk can be. Of course, I cannot download the pictures yet, so you will just have to wait! There are few sidewalks or debris free areas to walk along the streets. So, it took well over an hour to walk the distance as we climbed over small walls, over dirt piles, around excavation holes, and dodged traffic. In one area off to the side was a giant tent with an air conditioner out the side. This is the housing for the Indian workers. I took a picture of that! At one point there was a cross walk for pedestrians, but it was barricaded shut. What to do?! As J. said, "OK, Barbara, now what?" Well, I saw no reason not to climb over the barricades and cross. J. followed, although he still wondered if we were breaking some law. I am sure the barricades were just a suggestion that we should be cautious. We were cautious and cars did stop, so no harm done! So, barricades are really not a hinderance here, but a reminder to be careful and a test to see if you are agile enough to climb over.

We had a map that a friend got for us. I was sure I knew which way to go to get to the museum without looking at the map once we got to the Corniche, so I led the way. We came up to the museum (a magnicent looking pyramid like structure along the Corniche) after another mile walk ---- to discover this was the Sheraton --- in the opposite direction of the museum. So much for my leading the way without a map! Retracing the mile after you have walked 5 miles is a lesson in itself. I won't make that mistake again!

The Islamic Museum of Art openned in 2008 and is a magnicient structure designed by I.M. Pei. It's much more beautiful and striking than the Sheraton. It's free to enjoy and has a lovely restaurant/coffee shop on the first floor with 4 story windows and a view of the gulf. White leather furniture adorns the area for visitors. We welcomed the rest! We walked a rather hasty tour of the museum and determined we will return soon and invest in the taped tour of the museum with headphones. Like the Chicago Art Museum, there are highlight tours available by audio recording.

Another mile away was the Islamic cultural center with a mosque and religious information. A kind Arabic volunteer gave us a private talk on Islam and a book to read afterwards. The call to prayer occurred just as we were done with the tour, so we could not enter the mosque. Another time!

Our final stop was the Souk where we (finally) ate! For $12.00 total we had a great dinner and took some home for later. J. was sure we would be walking the 4 miles back since taxis were no where to be found or seen. I, on the other hand, had sore feet. I found a nice young security looking man and he showed us where to get a taxi----- and, just like that, one appeared and took us home. Of course, taking us "home" is a problem since we really don't know what street we live on. Again, I was sure I could find it. But, we took a different route home in the taxi. As I was directing the taxi driver and he was arguing with me --- J. said, "Barbara, this is not the time to get lost. Where are we??? Do you know where you are telling him to go?" Sure that I recognized our "compound", which vaguely looks like all the other compounds in Doha, I replied, "yes". Sure enough, I was right this time and we got home in time to watch the Colbert report and John Stewart. So, we are also keeping up on American politics for you Colbert and Stewart fans.

After 3 advil, a bath and a hot cup of tea--- we were fine. Soon we got a call from Dr. Maroof (the other Fulbrighter here with a car) offering to take us to the Islamic Art Museum the next day. This time, by car. Sure, why not?