Food in Qatar

Actually, I really did not expect that this would be a topic for me. While I love to eat, I enjoy the eating more when it is mixed with conversation. It is usually the conversation I remember more than what I ate. Well, last evenings dinner was an exception. We ate at Nusantao: Sea Kitchen at the Four Seasons Sheraton in Doha. This restaurant specializes in Indonesian, Middle Eastern, Japanese, Chinese, and Indian food. Our celebration-- end of the semester treat! I have frankly never tasted such good food. We ate for almost 3 hours, so I do not know all we ate but it included a sashimi platter, soup, grilled salmon onigiri, fried prawns, grilled ofu, chilean sea bass, lobster, dumplings stuffed with sea food, chocolate fudge like squares (that even I thought was rich!) and several different types of ice cream and sorbet. The wine was South African --- just right with all the fish. We went home and I even dreamed about fish. We have eaten at some amazing places in Doha. But, this was the best! This is not to say that the conversation was not good. We debated second and third wave feminism and talked about how quickly the time has passed here ----- and how lucky we were to be eating such amazing food!! In America (or, perhaps, the America I know), the best restaurants are not in hotels. Here, some of the best restaurants ARE in hotels. We have eaten at several and they indeed rank amoung the best in Doha. By the time we left the restaurant after 10PM, the place was pretty crowded. Obviously, dinner time is very late here by American standards. Now, to the other extreme. We are having a potluck tonight at 5:30 at our apartment. Stay tuned! The conversation will be interesting---- but don't count on rave reviews of the food. Especially mine. Which reminds me, after my meetings later this morning and this afternoon, I should get home just in time to throw something together and straighten up this place a bit to make room for our neighbors! I will concoct some famous (or infamous) BF dish --- it won't be lobster or sea bass---- but it may be chicken and noodles! You won't find it on the menu at Nusantao! And I have not been asked to stay on as a chef here! I am thinking perhaps I could be a food critic. Sounds like a good job for me. I promise to give all food a chance. In other words, I will specialize in non discrimination cases.

My first press conference

What an event! Luckily, this was not my co-teachers first press conference. Like many things in my life here--- this was a first for me! Mary Pat knew about putting together press packets and the value of such packets. I, on the other hand, know a lot about trying to get attention! So, I took the lead on working with the students on their press conference announcement and Mary Pat got things ready for the press! It was arabic time all the way on this adventure. I asked the students to be at the room ready to go at 9AM for the press conference that was to begin at 10AM. Mary Pat and I were in the room by 8AM. By 9:40 the first students arrived and by 10:30, everyone else showed up ---- even the press! We had about 50 people show up for the conference in addition to our 25 students. The students were amazing! Really! And I am not just saying that! One of the law school professors said he had never seen a better press conference than this one at the university to date! The students not only revealed the portion of the Domestic violence Protection Act they drafted, but also an Action Plan for Qatar complete with their ideas on how to combat domestic violence. The press had questions ------ and the students had answers. Once or twice I jumped in and added some things, but mostly they handled the press conference by themselves. Seven students presented the Action Plan and the rest of the students stood behind them as the 7 students spoke in front of microphones. I was proud. We all were! The VP of the University also attended so I got to meet her. I think she may have even been impressed. Afterwards, we had a couple speeches, one by the Dean of the Law School and another by a business professor and one by a former student who was the inspiration for this clinic. Then we gave out certificates - a really big deal here!--- and then the students surprised US with gifts and an album with messages and pictures for us. It was lovely..... and a surprise for sure. I am told this is not normal for any law school class---- but no one said that this course and the teachers were normal either. One of the profs said he had tears in his eyes during the press conference ---- he had never seen the law students so articulate and passionate about anything! So, that's my report and the brief review of what started out looking as though no one ---- not even the students ----- would attend. I was like a mother hen ---- pacing all around and making myself (and probably all the students) nervous. I felt like I was at my daughter's wedding ----- "Mom, just go upstairs. You are making us all nervous!" Fortunately, J. was there and took some pictures. Yes. the newpapers today covered the event ---- at least several of the newpapers did. One of our students was on the radio last evening and she reported it was a very good experience. The radio broadcast was in arabic so I did not listen to it! So, the course is over now. Mary Pat and I are working on final grades and re-creating our entire syllabus for the ABA. It's the "clean-up" now. The ABA Director for this region took us to lunch today at the Opal Restaurant at the St. Regis Hotel in Doha. It was just openned by Gordon Ramsey (some British chef, I am told). I am no gourmet, so I have no idea who that is, but the food was great! So, I survived ..... and did more than just survive, I think.

The philharmonic and other oddities

I guess you start feeling at home somewhere or anywhere by the end of about 4 months. It seems like we settled into a routine about that time and started looking for non-touristy things to do. Well, that's not quite right. We still do touristy things when I can drag J. along! It's just we seem to know where things are now and we know what google sites to check for what is going on ------ and we know some people that keep us informed of things we might enjoy. There is a very decent philharmonic here. Members for the orchestra were recuited from all over the world. We went the other night. It was fun and the music was really fun too! Some was classical and some was very modern. It was the brass section of the orchestra, so the conductor had the brass play pieces written for strings and for other instruments, which again was just fun! Today we attended the closing of the Cai guo-qiang exhibit at the Museum of Modern Art. Cai guo-qiang was present for the closing and we watched a live "conversation" between an arabic art collector and Cai where Cai answered questions about what he is currently doing (he just finished an exhibit in L.A.) and what he has in the works (Brussels, Brazil and Australia). He also talked about his life in China and how religion has played a role in his art. He discussed how his art has changed over the years as he has aged. He lives in China and NY and has a wife and 2 children (age 22 and 8!) ---quite a contrast in many respects. He calls himself a very quiet man so he does his art work in the public to get some time away from his introspective self and talk about his art with others. We enjoyed his exhibit very much, so coming back for the closing was especially nice. This past week, we also met with a young man who is interested in a Fulbright to the U.S. We met him in the Dubai airport. He works at Education City at one of the American Universities here in Doha. While he was interested in some contacts and information on the Fulbright, he was also kind enough to offer us a tour. What an amazing place this is. We toured Carnegie Mellon and Georgetown and the new conference center. I took lots of pictures. It's overwhelming when you consider the cost and the concept. These universities were invited to open their best colleges here in Doha. Qatar paid for the building and pays for the faculty. The quality is to be identical to the U.S. and the admission policy is to be the same. Cost is also identical as in the U.S. Students from the U.S. and Doha have reciprocity and the graduates are graduates of the U.S. universities. Across the highway from Weil Cornell is a new medical facility that is still being built. It's "budget" is $20 billion. It will connect to Weil Cornell by a tunnel under the highway. The convention center is state of the art. There are at least 3 large theatres in the building, many meeting rooms fully equipped with the latest technology and a ballroom that is outstanding. There are 27 chandeliers in the ballroom, each costs $2 million. In the atrium is a fully staffed restaurant. The parking is accessed by an underground walkway. The architecture is quite unusual and has special significance to the beduin roots of this country. Security is very tight at Education City. So, we really needed a insider to invite us. We had no idea how interesting it is. Wish we had known about all this sooner. At this point, I will stop. You get the drift! Then for a bit of fun. This morning the "Doha Mums" (the expat Brits) put on a "crafts fair". What fun, again! Mary Pat and I spent more than what we anticipated and found some lovely things made in Doha. I only wish I had brought more money with me!!! So far, I bought very little to bring home. Now, I can't say that anymore. And another thing. I think I really can find my way around this city. The roundabouts don't even phase me anymore. Wouldn't you know it ----- just when things get comfortable, it's time to move on!

J's Fulbright

Well, some of you have asked what J. is doing and how he is doing. Come to think of it, most of the 40 plus blogs have been about ME! But, again, I am writing this blog so I guess I have focused on what I do and how I am adjusting. So, as I thought about this blog tonight, I decided to first read what J. wrote as he reflected on the semester and then look at a couple notes he received from students that he shared with me. The work he is doing (and is now coming to an end!) deals first of all with teaching a research class to 42 women (of all different majors) - the only research class in english. The remaining 7 other research classes are in arabic. The second part is giving workshops --- to master teachers that are working with teachers in the 6 independent schools that are failing and workshops with faculty members at Qatar University. I am not sure what to say about any of this. J. leaves our apartment each morning around 7AM and gets back around 4 or 5PM Sunday thru Thursday. He usually works Friday and Saturday, at least part of the day. Often he is finishing power points in the evening for class. If I did not have a job, I would feel like a widow or be very lonely. Usually, the workshops are really good and he comes "home" with a relieved smile. That's how I can tell if things went good! And, then he talks about the next workshop he will do and how it will be even better! Or how, with some space and freedom to set up his own timetable, he could REALLY make a difference. The research class is another matter. Students email him all the time and they stop in his office a lot. Sometimes a lecture goes well and sometimes not. When some students don't show up for class and complain about his quizzes, he is upset and discouraged. When the students cheat, he is disillusioned. When a student seems to understand a new concept, it makes his day. So, perhaps the best way to describe what J. is doing is to share 2 of his students comments. These are quotes: "The biggest thank you of all must go to Dr. John Fritsche, my mentor in the College of Education. I do not think that I could have sustained a level of critical reflection throughout if it were not for his support and prompt feedback. He has always made me and my classmates feel that we are his main concern. " "From the very first day, you were so nice to each and every one of us. You were more than what we would ask for. Throughout this semester you taught me more than just what a research, hypothesis or scales of measurements are; you taught me how a person can be so kind, how kindness has no limits. You showed me the literal meaning of help, the great meaning of generosity. You never gave up on us; you were always there along the way, helping us, doing whatever it takes so that we can do the best in this course. Even though we asked for a lot, more than what we would usually ask for, you gave us way more than what a professor would offer his students or at least this is what we were used to, until you became a part of our lives and showed us how different things can be. No matter what I write, however I express it, it will never be enough to really tell you what you really mean to us or how amazing you are. Thank you so much for being the person you are." So, I guess that says it all. It's been a very successful Fulbright. I don't know if I have described the essence of what J. has done, but he throws himself into whatever he does. Not with 1/2 his brain ---- like I do! But with all of this brain.... and his heart too. Sometimes we wonder whether the effort is worth it. But, when I read this last quote from one of his students, I know J. got all the reward he could wish for ---- a thank you. After all, if you make a difference in the life of a person, you are a success. You have left a legacy. It's 110 degrees even in the evening here. And it is evening here. No matter what, we try to walk at least a couple miles each evening. I best get going. J. has class tomorrow ---- so, he needs to get back to work!

Winding down

It's hard to believe, but we are in the "home stretch" with just 2 weeks of classes until the end of the semester. The students are getting anxious and a bit demanding, wanting to know what grades they are getting so far. Probably nothing different than students all over the world. The difference is that my students have a teacher that is new to this game. While I can remember (barely) what it is was like being a student, seeing things from the other side is very different. So, my co-teacher and I have spent hours and hours finalizing plans for the semester, reviewing portfolios, determining interim grades, giving feedback to final project drafts, offering solace to the nervous and anxious student, planning for a press conference ....... and the final party! Now, I can really get into ordering cupcakes, so I am busy doing "research" on the best cupcakes in Doha. I have not yet chosen a vendor who will get the order, but the competition is stiff. At the final party we will be the awarding certificates ---- a prize the students here really value. Who would have known?? We (Mary Pat and I) have decided we also want a certificate ------ perhaps for the most unorthodox, random, off -the -street teachers these students have ever seen! We definitely get an "A" for effort. I'm just not sure if effort counts!!! We have had some "moments" --- like the time in class this week when one of the students confronted me during class and said she just did not want to give a presentation since she had other classes to worry about and she saw no purpose in this presentation. After giving her a disbelieving look, I launched into the purpose of the presentation and the skills we hoped to encourage by requiring students to give presentations in class. And, of course, a comment about the fact that this assignment was given out 7 weeks ago and I was sorry she had chosen to wait until the last minute when other pressures from other classes were upon her. I went into defense mode ----- only the defendant was ME! Not a pretty sight. But, I can't help but love them all. Seriously, the students here are wonderful. And, I did get an apology the next class! We've been busy drafting part of a law to criminalize domestic violence. It's been a learning experience for sure. What an interesting lesson in cultural differences. Like dating. Domestic violence often occurs during dating in the US. Here, there is no dating ---- hence it makes no "sense" to include dating in the coverage of the law ---- except for non-Muslims..... like me. And, I haven't thought about dating for about 40 years. "Living together" before marriage is illegal so there is no reason to include such circumstances in the law. "Magic" is part of the culture here so emotional abuse definitely must include some reference to this type of harm. And the preamble----- what I would call the heart and soul of the law.... it's purpose. What interesting preambles have been written for this new law. Well, anyway, the press conference will be held on May 28 to not only announce the draft provisions, but also announce the ideas the students have developed to deal with domestic violence in this country. When this all happens and how it happens ----- will be news in itself. Stay tuned. It is truly with a bit of real sadness that I think of ending the semester here. I finally know all the students by name. I have tried to call a spade, a spade ----- so I have confronted those that have failed to put the effort in an assignment that it deserves ---- or failed to cooperate in a group project allowing others to do the work and still take the credit. I value honesty. That has not changed. Well, I best get back to work.

Dubai

I am not really sure how or where to begin. It's really unfair to compare Dubai to Doha. I am really impressed with Doha, so it was somewhat surprising to me when I sensed the feeling in Dubai that the UAE is basically years ahead and many times richer than their gulf neighbors. I guess I shouldn't have been surprised. After all, in America we brag about the tallest building in America standing proudly in Chicago, the large endowment of our private schools, the biggest mall at the Mall of the Americas. The UAE is no different. The themes are reocurring. Yes, the biggest mall in the world is in Dubai ---- the Dubai Mall. It houses an aquarium filled with all kinds of fish including sharks, sting rays, barracudas and all manner of tropical fish. There is a huge waterfall and a gigantic ice rink. An amusement park is dwarfed by the gigantic food courts (yes, plural courtS) and there is hardly a store you could name that is not represented. The Burj Khalifa (the tallest building in the world) can be accessed via the Dubai Mall and there is a arabic souk in the ground floor of the Mall with jewelry and other arabic finery. The Burj Khalifa is very pleasing to the eye. If I had to compare a structure to it, I would name the Trump Tower in Chicago. I wonder if the same architect designed them both. Obviously, the Trump Tower is small compared to the Burj, but the resemblance is there. Back to the Dubai Mall. Needless to say, after one hour of non-stop walking, we had barely covered one section of the Mall and decided we did not need anything after all! The Dubai skyline is amazing and unique. I am impressed with Doha. I think I could pick Doha out of a line-up. Dubai is also unique but many times bigger and even more diverse. The architecture is dramatic and stunning. The newest 7 star hotel (the Burj al-Arab) is a landmark along the gulf coast and looks something like a mast on a sailing ship. The Atlantis Hotel is out in the Gulf on Palm Island ---- yes, the manmade island is in the shape of a palm tree! Apartment buildings, condos, luxury hotels are placed one after the other. The main highway in Dubai is 6 lanes in each direction connecting the business district and the marine district. Jumeriah (what our driver called the marine area) is the section of Dubai where we stayed for 3 nights - in the Al-Habtoor Grand Resort and Spa- at the end of the Jumeriah which is home to the Sheraton, the Westin, the Hilton, the Meridian, as well as many others. We were the guests of Al Habtoor - so we had our room and food taken care of as well as a driver to show us around, a dedicated hotel staff member to accompany us and appointments with some amazing people connected with schools and the Al Habtoor group. Zayed University, American University, the International School of the Emirates, the Al Habtoor main business center and the most amazing mosque designed after the Blue Mosque in Istanbul were just some of the sights. J. was the "real" guest of Al Habtoor, so I just tagged along for most of the visits. Not that I mind tagging along, but I tried to keep my mouth shut after it fell open with the amazing display of wealth set before us. Sometimes that was hard. Zayed University is a private school outside Dubai. The facilities are amazing. The students have a mall like campus indoors that is airconditioned and offers stores and restaurants as well as a first rate library and classrooms that can be accessed without having to go outside yet with views of the fountains in the outdoor atrium. When J. commented about a $6 million grant he was working on at Qatar University, the Director of Development laughed and said, "We talk about Billion Dolllar grants here!" So, it all relative, I guess. The American University at Sharjah is one of at least 20 universities housed on hundreds of acres in the desert all built in similar classical style along a flower and palm tree lined road that stretches for at least 2 miles! We met with the Vice Chancellor of American University, an engaging Lebanese woman who has been with the university since it began 15 years ago. Fifteen years is old and established by UAE standards. J. couldn't help but tell the story of Illinois College that has been around for over 180 years. Now that is impressive! But, it simply doesn't much matter. The main dialog was about collaboration ---- and that does matter! The visits to the 2 international schools (elementary and secondary - each with over 1200 students) was exciting. The principals are both english, one from Scotland and other from Britain. These are now for profit private schools owned by the Al Habtoor group. Over 80% of the students in both schools are non-Emiratis. The education is superb, both schools winning all kinds of awards. But, one hope is to attract Emiratis to the schools and increase the value of education in the UAE generally. The Dubai Creek area is where "it all began" so there is a museum in the area, dhows taking visitors across the creek and a Dubai Museum which is pretty interesting for the entrance fee of just $1.00. Embassies from all over are along the Creek including a brand new US Embassy. Al Habtoor is a real friend of Illinois College. He was in Budapest while we were there, but we drove past his home. The gate to his "estate" happened to be open. Our private driver said the estate consists of many homes where the family all lives. I literally jumped out of our hired car to take a picture ----- after which the gate quickly closed. So, I may have tripped some security alarm. No, I was not arrested and I am now back in Doha. I was worried for a moment! Well, we swam in the gulf - which was like a bathtub - that warm! We walked along the beach in the evening --------- and we sweated any time we were outside a car or building. Our private tour of the mosque by the Director of the administration at the mosque included a history lesson on the UAE and cookies, juice and candy bars! The mosque took years to build and the craftmanship is magnificent. Al Habtoor is a big donor. I wore a burka for the tour and we had a professional photographer along with us during the tour who promised to send us the photos. Don't hold your breath. Remember ---- I haven't learned how to attach photos to this blog! And seeing me in a burka is really not all that fascinating or attractive. We felt special, to say the least. We had a rare opportunity to spend 3 days as the guest of a very influential and generous man who openned doors that would not normally be open to us. We are grateful. We called Mustafa to pick us up at the airport ------ appreciating how short the drive was "home". Back to round-abouts and familiarity. I couldn't help but reflect on this latest adventure. Both are representatives of the arab culture - Doha and Dubai ---- but very different from each other in many respects. I suspect there may be a bit of competition between the 2 countries -----so, what's new? Sounds like Chicago and St. Louis!

Back in Qatar

I am back. After 2 marvelous weddings in the United States, time with my absolutely darling and precious granddaughter (and her parents, my son, my extended family, etc!) and a bout of dystentery, I am back in Qatar. The temperature is now 104 Fahrenheit, so I am complaining and only go outside if and when necessary. With all the work I have to do, this is not really hard to do. Complaining comes naturally and staying inside to avoid the heat is easy for me. J. was thrilled to have me "home", at least that was his first impression. Time will tell! Mary Pat and I are in the home stretch in our Domestic Violence Clinic courses and we have come to appreciate the strengths of each other - and luckily we have different strengths! There is no way I could teach these courses alone. Mary Pat keeps me sane and realistic. And she keeps me laughing - mostly at my ridiculous expectations. I am oftentimes convinced these courses will "birth" the future domestic violence pioneers of Qatar that will awaken the nation and save the people. Sounds like I grew up in the 60's and never quite swallowed my dose of reality! Things have changed since I left just over 2 weeks ago. Our local grocery store is remodeling and I am now lost. Several new homes are almost finished in our compound since I left. The Indian restaurant at Katara is better than I remembered. I tried the local cupcake store that serves icing on the cupcakes as thick as the cupcake itself (obviously not good for anyone that should be watching their weight!). I forgot how much I missed the students and their enthusiasm for studying about domestic violence ---- and how much they love to argue with each other! I forgot how nice it is to have a focus and purpose to my life here, even though it's only temporary and narrow. I spent all morning working on my power point for Sunday's lecture. Right now I plan to take a walk, sweat in the heat, enjoy chatting with J (who is still so serious about his students and his work here!) and look forward to the remaining adventures. Life is good.