About 20 kilometers outside Doha is a huge new museum out in the middle of the desert. It's huge rooms house the private collection of Shiekh Faisal Bin Qassim Al Thani. It appears that just 2 fulltime curators manage this museum which is a collection of wooden hard carved doors, glass lamps from a mosque, pottery, weapons, old manuscripts, fashions from centuries ago, fossils, rugs, paintings, old cars and farm equipment, religious artifacts, fossils, horse saddles, a bedouin tent, old handwoven rugs, jewelry, coins, children's toys, family photos of the Emir, and various and sundry priceless pieces well displayed, but cryptically described. One of the curators is a lovely young lady from Tunesia who took it upon herself to give us a private tour of part of the museum. It was clear that she took an interest in us because we were gueniunely interested in the museum - a rarity! It is clear she would relish the idea of leading a group of well behaved, interested, and well informed students to the treasure this museum holds for those with a passion for the past. Can't wait to go back! We plan to email ahead and "reserve" the curator's time!
Yes, this museum is in the middle of the desert. Well, I guess this is what Doha looked like just 30 years ago. There is one modern highway (Route 3) thru this part of the country connecting Doha with neighboring villages. The museum is just off the highway. Not much traffic, but plenty of evidence that building is going on and soon this desert will look like Doha! Busses are parked along the desert highway and workmen operate heavy equipment and hand shovels clearing the land and preparing to build housing, shops and attractions. In fact, a huge stadium is located in the desert with parking space for thousands of cars. Gigantic light fixtures surround the stadium for night time use. Electricity towers dot the landscape and the evidence of the expanding city is everywhere. Completion is just years away. With this perfect weather right now, work is nonstop. I can't imagine what it must be like in summer - no doubt, unbearable! Of course, I am already hot and its only January! This country does not lack for work, it just lacks for workers. Little wonder that 94% of the population is foreign....... or something like that!!! I can't imagine there is any unemployment and new employees arrive daily. Will the bubble burst?
Within 5 miles of the museum is the camel racing track. Several young camels were out for a sprint around the race-track when we arrived. Automatic whipping machines are mounted on their humps in place of jockeys. Apparently young boys used to serve as jockeys, but that practice has been banned. You don't want to know the story. Trust me, it's better this way --- even if you feel bad for the camels! We plan to return for the actual races soon. Now we know where to go! Again, the camel race track is out in the middle of the desert. Camel racing ends in March or April, probably bacause the spectators could not survive during the hot months. Like the museum, it's free unless you choose to bet on a camel.
Yesterday we signed a contract to have 5 gallon jugs of water delivered each week to our apartment. Our neighbor advised us to do this and it seems like a good idea. The water is not good for drinking here and we go thru a lot of water! We were boiling our water to make tea and coffee, but were told that was still not safe, so now we have a ready supply and regular delivery of fresh water each Saturday. We had to buy a hand pump also. To put this in perspective, we will get 25 - 5 gallon jugs for $40 and the jugs will be delivered to our door and should more than last us the entire time we are here. Before we signed the contract, we were lugging bottles of water 2 kilometers from the store several times each week - or, should I say, J. was lugging bottles of water! I carried the bread and fruit! We thought we were saving money by carrying the water bottles ourselves (or, J's self), but utlimately realized this did not make sense. Instead, J. can now carry other things like cookies, snacks, and other needed groceries.
Last night we took off in a different direction - Landmark shopping center. Our map has no legend so we were not sure how far away it was. It turned out to be about 4 miles away - not bad actually. The biggest obstacle was one gigantic roundabout. Dodging traffic at night can be difficult -- but not impossible. We bought our supper at the mall and carried it back (or, should I say, J. carried it back in his backpack)- I carried the bread, which was gone by the time we got home! We bought a roasted chicken (the smalled chicken I have ever seen!) and arabic salad, vegetable sushi, a baquette, coffee ... and muffins. One call to prayer ocurred during our walk, so a busload of workers sat waiting for their bus driver to finish prayers before it moved on. Walking provides such a different look at the scenery here. I am always anxious for a glimpse inside a gate and a look behind the walls. We were not in the mood to walk around the mall once we arrived, realizing we had a 4 mile walk back, so we will save the window shopping for another trip.
Two days ago, we walked "downtown" again - this time taking a little different route. We walked through Al Rumaila Park. Wow! From the highway along the Corniche this park doesn't look like much. But from the hills that dot the park, the view is awesome. Groups of women, families, and groups of men are everywhere. Picnicing is evident, but mostly people are visiting and children are playing. A cement lined hill provides a type of giant slide and looks like a lot of fun. Abby would love it! This park is blocks long, with a manmade waterway with bridges connecting both sides running through it. At one end is an outdoor heritage cultural museum for children and families. We enjoyed it! We ended that day at the Souk buying some lemon flavored almonds ,ate some food at the Souk and took a taxi home.
I am getting used to the bed, so am sleeping better. Good night!
Monday, January 30, 2012
Thursday, January 26, 2012
Slowly figuring life out
Mr. Ullah, the young man in charge of housing for the University, persoanlly came to our apartment this morning to give me the key to our "new" apartment - a spacious 2 bedroom apartment just 1/2 block away from our current studio. Although we will now have to pay $65 a month for this new apartment, the space will be worth it. Mr. Ullah is always immaculately groomed with a white robe, sandals, and the arab head dress of red and white checked. When it is hot, the long white head scarf is tucked up on the head, but otherwise it is worn draped around the face. No need to choose what to wear each day and the contrast with the black worn by women is really quite striking. Well, Mr. Ullah knows me well. As you can imagine, when J. and I could not fit into our kitchen at the same time and J. quickly took over our living room with his 2 computers and all his papers and books, I was in Mr. Ullah's office asking for a bigger apartment before the dust settled here. I must have been persuasive or persistent (or, as J. would say, "someone you don't want to mess with"), but he relented in the "no, we cannot give you another apartment". Once the debate ended, we both smiled and I feel confident I have a new friend.
Next, is the driver's license. Well, until I pass the "fingerprint" test, that's still in future. I am obedietly applying vaseline to my hands each morning and evening and even sometimes in between. If this doesn't work, they will just have to try some other way to identify me other than fingerprints.
Another new sighting on our way to the grocery store. White lights beautifully strung all around a couple houses in the compound nearby. They weren't there before yesterday and they are more brilliant than our Christmas displays. I began speculating as to why these lights suddenly appeared. A new business was openning and this was the display to announce the openning. The house went on the market and is now "for sale". Risking the prospect of my mother looking up the arabic customs in Qatar and proving me wrong, I decided to ask a local native. The lights announce a wedding. Duh! Makes sense now!
We were invited to a car show last evening. Qataris like their cars - big and fancy. The convention hall was filled with Bentleys, Rolls Royces, Mareratis (sp?), Toyotas, Nissans, Lexus, and several names I could not recognize. Next to the hall was a race track where several of the sports cars were test driven at very high speeds. Looking was good enough for me.
J.gave his first presentation to a gorup of about 40 at the university. He talked about standards and how to assess learning in the schools and university. It was very well received which may not be so wonderful. Within hours, he was invited to do more work and more presentations. I received a call from the University President's office from her legal counsel. We are set to meet early next week to see if there is anything I can do to assist the university in addition to working with women law students. I expect any work I do will be volunteer, which is fine with me. I will just have to wait and see what develops. In the meantime, I don't mind having a bit of free time. Each morning I slowly run around the compound in my "Dream Green" t-shirt (my family knows that t-shirt is at least 20 years old. I don't expect to be a marathoner by any means, but I am developing some stamina and figured I needed to do something to offset the good food. No doubt I am the talk of the compound, but since I cannot speak arabic or Hindi, I immagine they are saying nice things about me and how fast I am able to run.
What are we eating? The first week, we made a big pot of beans and rice and literally ate that every day. We swore we will never fix that again as long as we are here, but we were not sure what to eat! Now, we buy hummus, lebanese cheese, tahini, grape leaves, lebanese bread, yogurt, eggs, arabic salad, ......pretty basic stuff. We have attended several lectures at the University and they always have snacks available afterwards. These snacks consist if a type of burrito, small sandwich with creamy cheese, salad and a yogurt drink. When we went out to eat we tried the local fish - hammour- which was delicious. We are hoping to expand our cooking skills. I am waiting for the bigger kitchen we will have when we move tomorrow. But, don't hold your breath. I have a big kitchen at home and that has not improved my cooking. But, perhaps the novelty of the country will inspire me! J. always says there is "hope", but I am not sure that he would necessarily connect that word with my cooking. I will report on that later.
During the last several days, I have spent many hours at the university. Meeting people is really a treat here. The people are very friendly and warm. I enjoy the socializing and frankly relish the opportunity not to have to worry about my billable time. Granted, I have no billable time and that can be a problem, but it sure is freeing! If my partners are reading this -- either ignore the comment or just understand the enormity of the concept! I will not comment on the conversations until I feel I can do so. Suffice it to say, that I am meeting people from all over the world here. Professionals at the University come from New Zealand, Great Britain, Egypt, Palestine, Jordan, Libya, ----literally most everywhere. Laborers come from India, Phillipines, Sri Lanka, and Pakistan----- bus loads of them.
I am also reading a lot whenever I have time. "The Immortal Life of Henrietta Lacks" is just great. I am also studying up on Islam and Wahabism as well as Sharia law. I have become increasingly worried about Allen. I think he needs to go to Mecca to make up for all he has done wrong. So, if Allen asks for a leave, the partners need to give him one. I, on the other hand, would love to see my way to Jerusalem. But, if Allen needs a "substitute" to go to Mecca for him, I will go there. As you can see, I have no time to cook. There is just too much else to do!
Tonight we are invited to go to some arabian horse races. I am not sure about this, but, no doubt, will be different. Not something we have seen in Jacksonville.
Fortunately, our wonderful maintenance man here put a booster in our apartment for the internet - so skyping is perfect. Almost daily I talk to Emily and Abby!
Next, is the driver's license. Well, until I pass the "fingerprint" test, that's still in future. I am obedietly applying vaseline to my hands each morning and evening and even sometimes in between. If this doesn't work, they will just have to try some other way to identify me other than fingerprints.
Another new sighting on our way to the grocery store. White lights beautifully strung all around a couple houses in the compound nearby. They weren't there before yesterday and they are more brilliant than our Christmas displays. I began speculating as to why these lights suddenly appeared. A new business was openning and this was the display to announce the openning. The house went on the market and is now "for sale". Risking the prospect of my mother looking up the arabic customs in Qatar and proving me wrong, I decided to ask a local native. The lights announce a wedding. Duh! Makes sense now!
We were invited to a car show last evening. Qataris like their cars - big and fancy. The convention hall was filled with Bentleys, Rolls Royces, Mareratis (sp?), Toyotas, Nissans, Lexus, and several names I could not recognize. Next to the hall was a race track where several of the sports cars were test driven at very high speeds. Looking was good enough for me.
J.gave his first presentation to a gorup of about 40 at the university. He talked about standards and how to assess learning in the schools and university. It was very well received which may not be so wonderful. Within hours, he was invited to do more work and more presentations. I received a call from the University President's office from her legal counsel. We are set to meet early next week to see if there is anything I can do to assist the university in addition to working with women law students. I expect any work I do will be volunteer, which is fine with me. I will just have to wait and see what develops. In the meantime, I don't mind having a bit of free time. Each morning I slowly run around the compound in my "Dream Green" t-shirt (my family knows that t-shirt is at least 20 years old. I don't expect to be a marathoner by any means, but I am developing some stamina and figured I needed to do something to offset the good food. No doubt I am the talk of the compound, but since I cannot speak arabic or Hindi, I immagine they are saying nice things about me and how fast I am able to run.
What are we eating? The first week, we made a big pot of beans and rice and literally ate that every day. We swore we will never fix that again as long as we are here, but we were not sure what to eat! Now, we buy hummus, lebanese cheese, tahini, grape leaves, lebanese bread, yogurt, eggs, arabic salad, ......pretty basic stuff. We have attended several lectures at the University and they always have snacks available afterwards. These snacks consist if a type of burrito, small sandwich with creamy cheese, salad and a yogurt drink. When we went out to eat we tried the local fish - hammour- which was delicious. We are hoping to expand our cooking skills. I am waiting for the bigger kitchen we will have when we move tomorrow. But, don't hold your breath. I have a big kitchen at home and that has not improved my cooking. But, perhaps the novelty of the country will inspire me! J. always says there is "hope", but I am not sure that he would necessarily connect that word with my cooking. I will report on that later.
During the last several days, I have spent many hours at the university. Meeting people is really a treat here. The people are very friendly and warm. I enjoy the socializing and frankly relish the opportunity not to have to worry about my billable time. Granted, I have no billable time and that can be a problem, but it sure is freeing! If my partners are reading this -- either ignore the comment or just understand the enormity of the concept! I will not comment on the conversations until I feel I can do so. Suffice it to say, that I am meeting people from all over the world here. Professionals at the University come from New Zealand, Great Britain, Egypt, Palestine, Jordan, Libya, ----literally most everywhere. Laborers come from India, Phillipines, Sri Lanka, and Pakistan----- bus loads of them.
I am also reading a lot whenever I have time. "The Immortal Life of Henrietta Lacks" is just great. I am also studying up on Islam and Wahabism as well as Sharia law. I have become increasingly worried about Allen. I think he needs to go to Mecca to make up for all he has done wrong. So, if Allen asks for a leave, the partners need to give him one. I, on the other hand, would love to see my way to Jerusalem. But, if Allen needs a "substitute" to go to Mecca for him, I will go there. As you can see, I have no time to cook. There is just too much else to do!
Tonight we are invited to go to some arabian horse races. I am not sure about this, but, no doubt, will be different. Not something we have seen in Jacksonville.
Fortunately, our wonderful maintenance man here put a booster in our apartment for the internet - so skyping is perfect. Almost daily I talk to Emily and Abby!
Monday, January 23, 2012
I can't get away with anything!
Luckily my mom is reading this. Which is why I cannot get away with anything. She may be 85 years old, but she can spell and she is good with definitions of words. Well, I tried. Typically, I make stuff up as I go along. I am sure my grandmother did a lot of that. But, not my mother! Obviously, to those of you who are in the "know", I will have to be more careful and make sure I check out my assumptions before I post.
I spelled "corniche" 2 different ways in my blog. That is easily corrected. But my definition was way off. A corniche is a waterfront promenade. You were correct, Mom!!! So, I will trust my mother to keep me on the right track. No doubt I will still put some thigs in here that are my imaginative explanations of things, but I will be careful now to do that only when my mother cannot check these things out!
I told you that his country is amazing with how fast things are being built and how work is ocurring 24/7. We witnessed an example last evening. It was close to a "miracle". Each night we walk to the grocery store. It's about 2 kilometers away. We walk around trenches, over dirt piles, under trees, in the street where the "sidewalk" is totally blocked, climb onto 2 ft ledges to go around obstacles --- all just to get to the store. Well, last night we took our usual route and all the "barriers" were removed. Like the parting of the Red Sea, we walked on a swept brick/stone walkway the entire way! And, no, it was not a different route. Now, that is amazing! Just to be sure, I will take note of the walk tonight. Perhaps they have installed a moving walkway by tonight! My mother cannot check this out, so you will have to trust me!
A final word for today. Perhaps I can get away with something. I just returned from police headquarters where my fingerprints were taken. The car driver told me to enter the VIP entrance which is a room full of cushioned seats, 3 men taking fingerprints, and all men waiting to be fingerprinted. Before I entered, I noticed there were also entrances for men only and women only. As I entered the VIP room, I was told I should go to the "ladies only" room. Seeing only men in the room, I was not persuaded. So, I told them "no, I am supposed to be in this room". With that, I was given a number just like the other men and waited for my turn. In about 10 minutes my number was called. I have never had my fingerprints taken before except for perhaps a thumb print. This involves every finger and your palm. The man tried mutiple times and my fingerprints kept getting rejected. Finally, he told me to take "medicine" and come back in 10 days and try again! I started to wonder if perhaps the VIP room contained machines that could only read men's fingerprints, so I was doomed from the outset. The "medicine" is actually vaseline for my hands. I have to buy some and apply it for the next 10 days and see if my prints will appear with enough clarity to "pass" the test. That is not good, since this delays just about everything, but especially getting a driver's license and car!!!! I like the show "CSI - Miami". Based on my experience with that show, I think this means that if I do something I should not do and leave behind my fingerprints, they cannot be traced. At least not until I apply vaseline to my hands.
I spelled "corniche" 2 different ways in my blog. That is easily corrected. But my definition was way off. A corniche is a waterfront promenade. You were correct, Mom!!! So, I will trust my mother to keep me on the right track. No doubt I will still put some thigs in here that are my imaginative explanations of things, but I will be careful now to do that only when my mother cannot check these things out!
I told you that his country is amazing with how fast things are being built and how work is ocurring 24/7. We witnessed an example last evening. It was close to a "miracle". Each night we walk to the grocery store. It's about 2 kilometers away. We walk around trenches, over dirt piles, under trees, in the street where the "sidewalk" is totally blocked, climb onto 2 ft ledges to go around obstacles --- all just to get to the store. Well, last night we took our usual route and all the "barriers" were removed. Like the parting of the Red Sea, we walked on a swept brick/stone walkway the entire way! And, no, it was not a different route. Now, that is amazing! Just to be sure, I will take note of the walk tonight. Perhaps they have installed a moving walkway by tonight! My mother cannot check this out, so you will have to trust me!
A final word for today. Perhaps I can get away with something. I just returned from police headquarters where my fingerprints were taken. The car driver told me to enter the VIP entrance which is a room full of cushioned seats, 3 men taking fingerprints, and all men waiting to be fingerprinted. Before I entered, I noticed there were also entrances for men only and women only. As I entered the VIP room, I was told I should go to the "ladies only" room. Seeing only men in the room, I was not persuaded. So, I told them "no, I am supposed to be in this room". With that, I was given a number just like the other men and waited for my turn. In about 10 minutes my number was called. I have never had my fingerprints taken before except for perhaps a thumb print. This involves every finger and your palm. The man tried mutiple times and my fingerprints kept getting rejected. Finally, he told me to take "medicine" and come back in 10 days and try again! I started to wonder if perhaps the VIP room contained machines that could only read men's fingerprints, so I was doomed from the outset. The "medicine" is actually vaseline for my hands. I have to buy some and apply it for the next 10 days and see if my prints will appear with enough clarity to "pass" the test. That is not good, since this delays just about everything, but especially getting a driver's license and car!!!! I like the show "CSI - Miami". Based on my experience with that show, I think this means that if I do something I should not do and leave behind my fingerprints, they cannot be traced. At least not until I apply vaseline to my hands.
Friday, January 20, 2012
The Corniche
I think it means "Shell". The Corniche is the area along the gulf preserved for stolling and provides a beautiful view of the skyline. Along the Corniche you can walk from the business district to the Souk and tourist area- a stretch of about 2 miles in the shape of a "U". The tip of the "U" on one side are the luxury hotels like the Sheraton and Hilton and the tip of the other side of the "U" is the Islamic Museum of Art. In the middle is a giant oyster shell with a giant pearl in the center which is why I believe Corniche means shell or something similar. Pearling used to be the major trade and business of Qatar before gas and oil took over. There is still a man selling pearls in the Souk who was a pearl diver. Not many of them around anymore! He looks to be at least 80 years old and is surrounded by blown up pictures of what he used to look like when he was pearl diving!
To get to the Corniche, it's about a 4 mile walk from our apartment. I took pictures along the way because I wanted to show you how treacherous the walk can be. Of course, I cannot download the pictures yet, so you will just have to wait! There are few sidewalks or debris free areas to walk along the streets. So, it took well over an hour to walk the distance as we climbed over small walls, over dirt piles, around excavation holes, and dodged traffic. In one area off to the side was a giant tent with an air conditioner out the side. This is the housing for the Indian workers. I took a picture of that! At one point there was a cross walk for pedestrians, but it was barricaded shut. What to do?! As J. said, "OK, Barbara, now what?" Well, I saw no reason not to climb over the barricades and cross. J. followed, although he still wondered if we were breaking some law. I am sure the barricades were just a suggestion that we should be cautious. We were cautious and cars did stop, so no harm done! So, barricades are really not a hinderance here, but a reminder to be careful and a test to see if you are agile enough to climb over.
We had a map that a friend got for us. I was sure I knew which way to go to get to the museum without looking at the map once we got to the Corniche, so I led the way. We came up to the museum (a magnicent looking pyramid like structure along the Corniche) after another mile walk ---- to discover this was the Sheraton --- in the opposite direction of the museum. So much for my leading the way without a map! Retracing the mile after you have walked 5 miles is a lesson in itself. I won't make that mistake again!
The Islamic Museum of Art openned in 2008 and is a magnicient structure designed by I.M. Pei. It's much more beautiful and striking than the Sheraton. It's free to enjoy and has a lovely restaurant/coffee shop on the first floor with 4 story windows and a view of the gulf. White leather furniture adorns the area for visitors. We welcomed the rest! We walked a rather hasty tour of the museum and determined we will return soon and invest in the taped tour of the museum with headphones. Like the Chicago Art Museum, there are highlight tours available by audio recording.
Another mile away was the Islamic cultural center with a mosque and religious information. A kind Arabic volunteer gave us a private talk on Islam and a book to read afterwards. The call to prayer occurred just as we were done with the tour, so we could not enter the mosque. Another time!
Our final stop was the Souk where we (finally) ate! For $12.00 total we had a great dinner and took some home for later. J. was sure we would be walking the 4 miles back since taxis were no where to be found or seen. I, on the other hand, had sore feet. I found a nice young security looking man and he showed us where to get a taxi----- and, just like that, one appeared and took us home. Of course, taking us "home" is a problem since we really don't know what street we live on. Again, I was sure I could find it. But, we took a different route home in the taxi. As I was directing the taxi driver and he was arguing with me --- J. said, "Barbara, this is not the time to get lost. Where are we??? Do you know where you are telling him to go?" Sure that I recognized our "compound", which vaguely looks like all the other compounds in Doha, I replied, "yes". Sure enough, I was right this time and we got home in time to watch the Colbert report and John Stewart. So, we are also keeping up on American politics for you Colbert and Stewart fans.
After 3 advil, a bath and a hot cup of tea--- we were fine. Soon we got a call from Dr. Maroof (the other Fulbrighter here with a car) offering to take us to the Islamic Art Museum the next day. This time, by car. Sure, why not?
To get to the Corniche, it's about a 4 mile walk from our apartment. I took pictures along the way because I wanted to show you how treacherous the walk can be. Of course, I cannot download the pictures yet, so you will just have to wait! There are few sidewalks or debris free areas to walk along the streets. So, it took well over an hour to walk the distance as we climbed over small walls, over dirt piles, around excavation holes, and dodged traffic. In one area off to the side was a giant tent with an air conditioner out the side. This is the housing for the Indian workers. I took a picture of that! At one point there was a cross walk for pedestrians, but it was barricaded shut. What to do?! As J. said, "OK, Barbara, now what?" Well, I saw no reason not to climb over the barricades and cross. J. followed, although he still wondered if we were breaking some law. I am sure the barricades were just a suggestion that we should be cautious. We were cautious and cars did stop, so no harm done! So, barricades are really not a hinderance here, but a reminder to be careful and a test to see if you are agile enough to climb over.
We had a map that a friend got for us. I was sure I knew which way to go to get to the museum without looking at the map once we got to the Corniche, so I led the way. We came up to the museum (a magnicent looking pyramid like structure along the Corniche) after another mile walk ---- to discover this was the Sheraton --- in the opposite direction of the museum. So much for my leading the way without a map! Retracing the mile after you have walked 5 miles is a lesson in itself. I won't make that mistake again!
The Islamic Museum of Art openned in 2008 and is a magnicient structure designed by I.M. Pei. It's much more beautiful and striking than the Sheraton. It's free to enjoy and has a lovely restaurant/coffee shop on the first floor with 4 story windows and a view of the gulf. White leather furniture adorns the area for visitors. We welcomed the rest! We walked a rather hasty tour of the museum and determined we will return soon and invest in the taped tour of the museum with headphones. Like the Chicago Art Museum, there are highlight tours available by audio recording.
Another mile away was the Islamic cultural center with a mosque and religious information. A kind Arabic volunteer gave us a private talk on Islam and a book to read afterwards. The call to prayer occurred just as we were done with the tour, so we could not enter the mosque. Another time!
Our final stop was the Souk where we (finally) ate! For $12.00 total we had a great dinner and took some home for later. J. was sure we would be walking the 4 miles back since taxis were no where to be found or seen. I, on the other hand, had sore feet. I found a nice young security looking man and he showed us where to get a taxi----- and, just like that, one appeared and took us home. Of course, taking us "home" is a problem since we really don't know what street we live on. Again, I was sure I could find it. But, we took a different route home in the taxi. As I was directing the taxi driver and he was arguing with me --- J. said, "Barbara, this is not the time to get lost. Where are we??? Do you know where you are telling him to go?" Sure that I recognized our "compound", which vaguely looks like all the other compounds in Doha, I replied, "yes". Sure enough, I was right this time and we got home in time to watch the Colbert report and John Stewart. So, we are also keeping up on American politics for you Colbert and Stewart fans.
After 3 advil, a bath and a hot cup of tea--- we were fine. Soon we got a call from Dr. Maroof (the other Fulbrighter here with a car) offering to take us to the Islamic Art Museum the next day. This time, by car. Sure, why not?
Thursday, January 19, 2012
Fashion and LuLu
I am fascinated with the female dress here. I could watch the women and the variety of their dress for hours. I truly doubt that any 2 are alike. Black can be trimmed in all kinds of things.....even pink trim! The beads and sparkling rhinestone like settings truly beautiful. Different black material can be used as trim to add accents and lace is even used to accent the robes. The headdress can be attached or unattached and can be close to the face and hairline or raised in the back to add height. But the truly surprising accents are the shoes and the purses. The women lack nothing in fashion in that regard. Designer purses are everywhere - large and bold and attractive. Shoes are strappy or high heeled or sharply pointed and are colorful - pink and red sometimes! I am told I must have permission to take a picture of women. So, I am waiting for the opportunity. Perhaps once I get to know some women better, I will ask. The facial coverings vary substantially. Some cover their faces completely, others cover all but the eyes, some over the mouth and eyes and some only the hair and neck. Some keep covered always and others flip back the covering except when men come in sight. I am told the degree of covering depends on the husbands or fathers. I need to inquire further. They are heavily made up with penciled eyebrows, eye liner, eye shadow and mascara and all blemishes are expertly covered. Some have henna tatoos on their hands. Their black robes sweep along the ground as they walk, with absolutely no skin showing. They tend to stroll, not rush.
As you can imagine, the contrast to my style is amazing. I don't know how to stroll! My makeup is minimal. My purses are functional. My shoes are only stylish if my daughter helps me pick them out. As the wind was blowing yesterday, I noticed jeans beneath one robe. That looked more like my style! But mostly I notice the variety and stylishness of black and the dignity of the women. As you can tell, I actually have slowed down enough that I am looking around and noticing things I have not bothered to notice before. Like a breath of fresh air, I am enjoying it! Those women I have met have been warm and friendly - taking time to welcome me
ending our conversation with a greeting of "see you again, God willing" - my rough translation! The women and men are separated at the University. We have eaten twice on the women's campus, so this has given me a great opportunity to observe students here. J. can buy food on the women's campus, but we must eat in the faculty area away from the women. I can't wait to make some friends amoung the students!
The grocery store is a great time to observe the mothers. We go grocery shopping almost every night. We can walk, so the exercise is good and I love the chance to see new food and the people. Lulu means "pearl" in arabic, I am told. We were driven to Lulu last evening. Picture a super Walmart that is 2 stories high. The first floor is all food and the second floor is electronics, clothing, phones, watches. perfume, toys. There is nothing you cannot buy. Of course, you pay dearly for things imported from afar, so we looked mostly for arabic brands and fresh fruit and vegetables. The outside of the building is adorned with hanging lights of all colors and the inside entry way is lit up with balls of lights that glitter and hang light a giant chandelier. Security is everywhere making sure that no one is bumped while shopping - at least that what they appear to be watching for amoung other things. I was so fascinated by the lights that it was hard to keep my mind on shopping. We went with a Pakistani/American family and the girls said that shopping at Lulu helped them thru the Christmas holidays when they missed the lights in America! I can see why!
The store was packed - with all nationalities, shapes and sizes. I like my little ElMeera grocery store better, but this was a treat to see!
I am doing laundry now while J. is at the university. Actually, I am doing the same load of laundry twice since my free standing clothes line fell over and all the clothes got dirty the first time. For a housewife, I sure have a lot to learn.
As you can imagine, the contrast to my style is amazing. I don't know how to stroll! My makeup is minimal. My purses are functional. My shoes are only stylish if my daughter helps me pick them out. As the wind was blowing yesterday, I noticed jeans beneath one robe. That looked more like my style! But mostly I notice the variety and stylishness of black and the dignity of the women. As you can tell, I actually have slowed down enough that I am looking around and noticing things I have not bothered to notice before. Like a breath of fresh air, I am enjoying it! Those women I have met have been warm and friendly - taking time to welcome me
ending our conversation with a greeting of "see you again, God willing" - my rough translation! The women and men are separated at the University. We have eaten twice on the women's campus, so this has given me a great opportunity to observe students here. J. can buy food on the women's campus, but we must eat in the faculty area away from the women. I can't wait to make some friends amoung the students!
The grocery store is a great time to observe the mothers. We go grocery shopping almost every night. We can walk, so the exercise is good and I love the chance to see new food and the people. Lulu means "pearl" in arabic, I am told. We were driven to Lulu last evening. Picture a super Walmart that is 2 stories high. The first floor is all food and the second floor is electronics, clothing, phones, watches. perfume, toys. There is nothing you cannot buy. Of course, you pay dearly for things imported from afar, so we looked mostly for arabic brands and fresh fruit and vegetables. The outside of the building is adorned with hanging lights of all colors and the inside entry way is lit up with balls of lights that glitter and hang light a giant chandelier. Security is everywhere making sure that no one is bumped while shopping - at least that what they appear to be watching for amoung other things. I was so fascinated by the lights that it was hard to keep my mind on shopping. We went with a Pakistani/American family and the girls said that shopping at Lulu helped them thru the Christmas holidays when they missed the lights in America! I can see why!
The store was packed - with all nationalities, shapes and sizes. I like my little ElMeera grocery store better, but this was a treat to see!
I am doing laundry now while J. is at the university. Actually, I am doing the same load of laundry twice since my free standing clothes line fell over and all the clothes got dirty the first time. For a housewife, I sure have a lot to learn.
Monday, January 16, 2012
The Souks and other matters
Souks are just ancient malls. The one in Qatar by the gulf is full of aromatic scents, live animals for sale, fabric, housewares, gold, jewelry, sweets, antiques, seasonings, and men with wheelbarows that will carry your purchases. Restaurants with arabic food line the large corridor down the center - and men are baking fresh pita bread in closed ovens for about 5 cents a piece. Lots of people are milling around, most start eating at around 8PM. We stopped at a Lebanese restaurant and had a variety of food - falafel, hummus, salad, potatoes, olives, ---and 4 of us ate until we couldn't eat anymore --- all for about $30 total. Some restaurants separate the men and women and some do not. The talk is mostly Arabic although Urdu, Hindi and other languages are also heard. Cutting in line and yelling occurs sometimes, but mostly it's pretty orderly and friendly. Tasting is also allowed. Bargaining by men is also allowed.
There are no beggars. It is illegal. There are charity tables where you can contribute and receive a receipt. Women cook there own dishes along the perimeter and sell a variety of food. This souk is know as the Wakik and is probably the most famous and popular in Qatar. It's been rebuilt to keep the atmosphere of long ago.
I wore a headscarf today as we walked to the university. Mostly to keep out the desert sand. We were again offered a ride, this time by a young couple. It's better than hitchhiking since it involves no work, not even a thumb extended. But, since our walk was cut short by the ride, we decided to walk to the grocery store in the dark this evening. No one stopped. So, we bought cookies and ate them when we got home. Somehow, we felt less guilty after the long walk.
We had coffee with Dr. Mahroof this afternoon - the other Fulbright scholar. He's a chemist and Pakistani from Minnesota. We met at the women's campus at the university. Another goal today was reached. We located J's office --- after at least 1/2 hour of wandering the halls. The university is a maze of corridors and stairways that all look alike. Dr. Maroof claims it took him the first 2 weeks just to find his office --- so we were ahead of schedule. The trick will be if we can find it again tomorrow.
This morning was our medical examination for permanent residency. We were advised it would be a nightmare taking at least 4 hours. First we were driven to the University where Mohammed joined us. He just arrived from Halifax. He's an Egyptian doctoral student who also needed his medical exam. I was dropped off at the immigration center and told to go with the women. J. and Mohammed disappeared. The lines were long, security guards were not helpful and I was confused as to what to do and where to go. No doubt I looked puzzled and pitiful. Out of nowhere, a female doctor appeared and saw me. She took my papers and told me to follow her. She asked if I was alone and I mentioned that my husband was somewhere on the men's side with another man named Abdul. I was so flustered that I called Mohammed "Abdul". She told me to call them. Of course, they were patiently standing in a long, long line (the first of 3 long lines we were apparently required to stand in). Receiving my message, we located each other and suddenly proceeded to the front of every line and completed the xrays and blood work in less than 20 minutes. Apparently, our driver was supposed to help us with all this, but he did not have any idea what to do. This female doctor was amazing and powerful. Before we knew it, we were back in the car and headed back home.
With such a successful few days, I am determined to tackle the bus transportation now. Is it safe here? Yes. No problems so far. Another observation: construction is going on 24/7. It's non-stop. It's simply amazing.
There are no beggars. It is illegal. There are charity tables where you can contribute and receive a receipt. Women cook there own dishes along the perimeter and sell a variety of food. This souk is know as the Wakik and is probably the most famous and popular in Qatar. It's been rebuilt to keep the atmosphere of long ago.
I wore a headscarf today as we walked to the university. Mostly to keep out the desert sand. We were again offered a ride, this time by a young couple. It's better than hitchhiking since it involves no work, not even a thumb extended. But, since our walk was cut short by the ride, we decided to walk to the grocery store in the dark this evening. No one stopped. So, we bought cookies and ate them when we got home. Somehow, we felt less guilty after the long walk.
We had coffee with Dr. Mahroof this afternoon - the other Fulbright scholar. He's a chemist and Pakistani from Minnesota. We met at the women's campus at the university. Another goal today was reached. We located J's office --- after at least 1/2 hour of wandering the halls. The university is a maze of corridors and stairways that all look alike. Dr. Maroof claims it took him the first 2 weeks just to find his office --- so we were ahead of schedule. The trick will be if we can find it again tomorrow.
This morning was our medical examination for permanent residency. We were advised it would be a nightmare taking at least 4 hours. First we were driven to the University where Mohammed joined us. He just arrived from Halifax. He's an Egyptian doctoral student who also needed his medical exam. I was dropped off at the immigration center and told to go with the women. J. and Mohammed disappeared. The lines were long, security guards were not helpful and I was confused as to what to do and where to go. No doubt I looked puzzled and pitiful. Out of nowhere, a female doctor appeared and saw me. She took my papers and told me to follow her. She asked if I was alone and I mentioned that my husband was somewhere on the men's side with another man named Abdul. I was so flustered that I called Mohammed "Abdul". She told me to call them. Of course, they were patiently standing in a long, long line (the first of 3 long lines we were apparently required to stand in). Receiving my message, we located each other and suddenly proceeded to the front of every line and completed the xrays and blood work in less than 20 minutes. Apparently, our driver was supposed to help us with all this, but he did not have any idea what to do. This female doctor was amazing and powerful. Before we knew it, we were back in the car and headed back home.
With such a successful few days, I am determined to tackle the bus transportation now. Is it safe here? Yes. No problems so far. Another observation: construction is going on 24/7. It's non-stop. It's simply amazing.
Friday, January 13, 2012
Day 2
I did not expect to blog again so soon, but I just couldn't help it. Last evening we decided to take a walk to the nearby ElMeera grocery store - now my favorite store! By car, it seems simple enough. We started out at about 4:30 PM. No problem finding the store, although there are few sidewalks, fast cars along the highway and plenty of rocks and sand to make walking a challenge. On the way back, we somehow got lost in our "compound". By 9PM we were close to panic. There are no street signs and maps are non existent. We knew we lived at "20" in an apartment near a mosque. Well, there are about 1000 mosques here and who knows how many houses and apartments with a "20" . Fortunately, we stopped an Indian business man getting oute rest (about 80% ofglad to see him that I probably accosted him) and he found our apartment!!!!
This morning we feared going outside - thinking we may get lost again and the warm weather would surely kill us - so around noon we called our friend, Dr. Haitham. I think I told you his is Jordanian. Actually, he is Palestinian and an American citizen. He "rescued" us with his car and brought along 4 of his 5 daughters. We had a lovely time at the Landmark Mall which has a sort of "Walmart", but just called something else. Then we ate at Ponderosa! I have become fast friends with these girls - ages 10,11,14 and 15. They helped me buy what I needed and promised to have me to dinner soon. We drove all around Doha while it was still daylight. Haitham said that Doha is now the richest country in the world and that fact deserves to be on my blog. So, here it is. I truly believe it. The homes are enormous, building is everywhere, all the cars are new and flashy (Bentley, Rolls Royce, Ferrari, large SUVs) and big name stores from all over the world have set up in the shopping centers. Most Qatari's have several servants. This years raise for Qatari citizens employed by the university was a 60% increase over last yeasr's salary plus a 10% merit pay increase.
Only Qatari citizens can own homes here. The rest (about 80% of the population) must rent. Income used to be derived from pearls, now its oil. Gas prices are cheap - about $1.00 a gallon. There are no taxes. No income taxes and no sales tax. There is a new development here called "Pearl" that can only be accessed by a bridge monitored by guards. The apartments rent at Pearl for $9,000 a month. There's a beautiful walk way along the Persian Gulf. Can't wait to stoll along it.
I almost forgot. This morning we took off on a short walk to the university. (Will we ever learn?) I decided to try the headscarf - following the instructions Rasha gave me. We were picked up by a very kind Egyptian man who took us in his car. He thought I was Muslim. So, I guess I did something right. I think I will try this again. At least we have a chance of getting help!
This morning we feared going outside - thinking we may get lost again and the warm weather would surely kill us - so around noon we called our friend, Dr. Haitham. I think I told you his is Jordanian. Actually, he is Palestinian and an American citizen. He "rescued" us with his car and brought along 4 of his 5 daughters. We had a lovely time at the Landmark Mall which has a sort of "Walmart", but just called something else. Then we ate at Ponderosa! I have become fast friends with these girls - ages 10,11,14 and 15. They helped me buy what I needed and promised to have me to dinner soon. We drove all around Doha while it was still daylight. Haitham said that Doha is now the richest country in the world and that fact deserves to be on my blog. So, here it is. I truly believe it. The homes are enormous, building is everywhere, all the cars are new and flashy (Bentley, Rolls Royce, Ferrari, large SUVs) and big name stores from all over the world have set up in the shopping centers. Most Qatari's have several servants. This years raise for Qatari citizens employed by the university was a 60% increase over last yeasr's salary plus a 10% merit pay increase.
Only Qatari citizens can own homes here. The rest (about 80% of the population) must rent. Income used to be derived from pearls, now its oil. Gas prices are cheap - about $1.00 a gallon. There are no taxes. No income taxes and no sales tax. There is a new development here called "Pearl" that can only be accessed by a bridge monitored by guards. The apartments rent at Pearl for $9,000 a month. There's a beautiful walk way along the Persian Gulf. Can't wait to stoll along it.
I almost forgot. This morning we took off on a short walk to the university. (Will we ever learn?) I decided to try the headscarf - following the instructions Rasha gave me. We were picked up by a very kind Egyptian man who took us in his car. He thought I was Muslim. So, I guess I did something right. I think I will try this again. At least we have a chance of getting help!
Thursday, January 12, 2012
day One
We arrived in a fog - both literally and figuratively. After 36 hours of traveling, I was really tired. Our huge airplane was packed, but the majority of the passengers were transferring to other planes headed for India. The airport in Qatar is brand new, shining, clean and very modern. There were no lines for immigration and all we showed were passports. The signs in the airport read, "Arab Pride" and men and women were dressed in traditional garb. Women were in black, covered. Men were in white robes with red and white checked head scarfs. We chose the "nothing to declare" line for customs which meant we just walked out!
A university cab driver met us and made sure we got cash from an ATM in the airport. As I said, it was foggy --- and warm. Driving through the downtown area at 7PM proved to be a challenge with traffic heavy, modern and impressive buildings all around, signs in arabic and english, and brightly colored neon lighting. We drove along the Persian Gulf before heading to our apartment near the university. It is about 20 minutes from the business district. Construction is going on everywhere - large attractive structures with tile roofs and painted concrete walls. Homes are large from what I saw. Our apartment is small. We have a compact living room with a table, 4 chairs, a sofa and a chair as well as a flat screen Sharp T.V. A hallway leads to a small kitchen with stove, refrigerator and washing machine. A bathroom is off the hallway and the hallway ends in a bedroom. I do not think anyone has lived in this apartment before we moved in. We have pots and pans and table service for 4 as well as sheets and a cover for the bed. There is also a dresser, 2 nightstands and a freestanding closet. It's very adequate. The airconditioning works just fine! There was bread, bottled water and juice as well as a bag of sugar and tea bags in the kitchen.
Dr. Haitham and his 2 daughters (Rasha and Batool) met us at the apartment to welcome us. Rasha is in 9th grade and Batool is in 10th grade. Haitham and his wife are Jordanians and both girls were raised in the U.S. -- Haitham worked at a university in Indiana and Arizona. There are 6 children in the family. They moved to Qatar 3 years ago and the children all attend a Canadian school. Rasha misses the U.S., Batool does not. Both speak American english without any accent and are delightful. Batool needed to go to Landmark to meet friends (the Walmart of Qatar), so Rasha accompanied us to the grocery store. Another adventure. I am not really sure what all I bought....Something that J. liked (free tasting in the store) and looked like yogurt but is brown and you buy it in chunks like cheese! I wasn't too brave this first time, so I stuck with fruit and vegetables that I recognized. Men and women shop at the grocery store. Again, most were in traditional dress. The cars in the parking lot were mostly SUV's, American made or luxury German cars.
I will obviously need some cooking lessons. I could tell that Rasha had no idea what to recommend since she says she can't cook. so I am hoping to meet her mother and learn some tricks. I asked her about the security guards at the grocery store. She told me they are mostly for Arabic people, to make sure that males and females are not meeting each other. Here, I thought it meant there must be a lot of crime. She assured me that westerners can do things that would not be allowed by arabs. I may be warned about those things, but not punished. No doubt, you were worried about that!
Also picked up 2 cell phones for local use. Luckily, another professor also met us and bargained with the Indian store owner for the 2 phones. Ali is his name and he is also from Jordan. He drives a brand new Mercedes, has 9 children and his wife is expecting the 10th child soon. He seems easy going and laughs at my questions. As usual, I am full of questions --- mostly basic ones that first evening! I expect I will entertain Ali with my questions and comments as the months go by. Let's hope he continues to have a sense of humor.
By the time our welcome "team" left, it was after 10PM. It was a rough first night -- which is to be expected. The mattress is as hard as rocks, so I will have to get used to that. J. was picked up by a driver at 7:30AM today, so he was up at 5AM. He's called me twice already to report that everyone at the University is friendly and kind. He is assigned an office and the books he shipped over were waiting for him. I am now a homemaker, so I am making a home. That means I am unpacking and making a list of what we need!
The sky is a clear blue this morning. A mosque is a block away. The call to prayer has just ended. It's about 70 degrees and rather quiet. I am told there are others that live in this "compound", but I haven't seen anyone yet. There is a swimming pool just next to our apartment. Walls surround the complex and a desert area is just a block away. I can see the university from the street outside our apartment! A kind and patient young man who works for the owner of this complex has answered my phone calls and turned on our hot water, showed me how to use the electricity, hooked up the cable and gave me the wireless password. I am sure he finds me rather stupid, but he covers it well and smiles a lot. His english is minimal, but better than my Arabic!
So, I have survived my first evening and my first morning.
A university cab driver met us and made sure we got cash from an ATM in the airport. As I said, it was foggy --- and warm. Driving through the downtown area at 7PM proved to be a challenge with traffic heavy, modern and impressive buildings all around, signs in arabic and english, and brightly colored neon lighting. We drove along the Persian Gulf before heading to our apartment near the university. It is about 20 minutes from the business district. Construction is going on everywhere - large attractive structures with tile roofs and painted concrete walls. Homes are large from what I saw. Our apartment is small. We have a compact living room with a table, 4 chairs, a sofa and a chair as well as a flat screen Sharp T.V. A hallway leads to a small kitchen with stove, refrigerator and washing machine. A bathroom is off the hallway and the hallway ends in a bedroom. I do not think anyone has lived in this apartment before we moved in. We have pots and pans and table service for 4 as well as sheets and a cover for the bed. There is also a dresser, 2 nightstands and a freestanding closet. It's very adequate. The airconditioning works just fine! There was bread, bottled water and juice as well as a bag of sugar and tea bags in the kitchen.
Dr. Haitham and his 2 daughters (Rasha and Batool) met us at the apartment to welcome us. Rasha is in 9th grade and Batool is in 10th grade. Haitham and his wife are Jordanians and both girls were raised in the U.S. -- Haitham worked at a university in Indiana and Arizona. There are 6 children in the family. They moved to Qatar 3 years ago and the children all attend a Canadian school. Rasha misses the U.S., Batool does not. Both speak American english without any accent and are delightful. Batool needed to go to Landmark to meet friends (the Walmart of Qatar), so Rasha accompanied us to the grocery store. Another adventure. I am not really sure what all I bought....Something that J. liked (free tasting in the store) and looked like yogurt but is brown and you buy it in chunks like cheese! I wasn't too brave this first time, so I stuck with fruit and vegetables that I recognized. Men and women shop at the grocery store. Again, most were in traditional dress. The cars in the parking lot were mostly SUV's, American made or luxury German cars.
I will obviously need some cooking lessons. I could tell that Rasha had no idea what to recommend since she says she can't cook. so I am hoping to meet her mother and learn some tricks. I asked her about the security guards at the grocery store. She told me they are mostly for Arabic people, to make sure that males and females are not meeting each other. Here, I thought it meant there must be a lot of crime. She assured me that westerners can do things that would not be allowed by arabs. I may be warned about those things, but not punished. No doubt, you were worried about that!
Also picked up 2 cell phones for local use. Luckily, another professor also met us and bargained with the Indian store owner for the 2 phones. Ali is his name and he is also from Jordan. He drives a brand new Mercedes, has 9 children and his wife is expecting the 10th child soon. He seems easy going and laughs at my questions. As usual, I am full of questions --- mostly basic ones that first evening! I expect I will entertain Ali with my questions and comments as the months go by. Let's hope he continues to have a sense of humor.
By the time our welcome "team" left, it was after 10PM. It was a rough first night -- which is to be expected. The mattress is as hard as rocks, so I will have to get used to that. J. was picked up by a driver at 7:30AM today, so he was up at 5AM. He's called me twice already to report that everyone at the University is friendly and kind. He is assigned an office and the books he shipped over were waiting for him. I am now a homemaker, so I am making a home. That means I am unpacking and making a list of what we need!
The sky is a clear blue this morning. A mosque is a block away. The call to prayer has just ended. It's about 70 degrees and rather quiet. I am told there are others that live in this "compound", but I haven't seen anyone yet. There is a swimming pool just next to our apartment. Walls surround the complex and a desert area is just a block away. I can see the university from the street outside our apartment! A kind and patient young man who works for the owner of this complex has answered my phone calls and turned on our hot water, showed me how to use the electricity, hooked up the cable and gave me the wireless password. I am sure he finds me rather stupid, but he covers it well and smiles a lot. His english is minimal, but better than my Arabic!
So, I have survived my first evening and my first morning.
Friday, January 6, 2012
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